Friday, 31 May 2013

Petra

The bucket list is one name shorter..Petra was today...
The entrance to Petra is through a spectacular sheer-sided chasm in the rock that forms an impressive 1200m deep and narrow gorge with cliffs that reach up to 80m. It is called As-Siq. The original channels cut in the walls to carry the water into Petra at about waist height can be seen and in some places the 2000-year old terracotta pipes are still in place.
Then you reach The Treasury (El Khazneh) - the most beautiful and ikonic monument at Petra..
The early morning sun on the jewel in the crown

The treasury stands about 43m high and is about 30m wide, the mix of architectural styles that was used by the Nabataeans incorporated Graeco-Roman, Egyptian and Mesopotamian styles in addition to local styles. The Corinthian columns have unique capitals with flowers and plants not seen anywhere else and much of its architectural style was quite unique in the ancient world and the elaborately carved facade represents the Nabataean engineering genius.

It was carved in the 1st century BC as the tomb of an important Nabataean king; some scholars believe it was later used as a temple. Contained in a confined space, it is protected from the elements thus the detail of the artisans has survived. The iron-laden sandstone has many hues from sunrise until the evening failing light.

Our guide explained that the Nabataeans were gifted ancient Arab peoples who originated from the Arabian Peninsular. The lived on the trade routes linking China and India with the Mediterranean coastal cities and their ports. As such they were open to outside cultural influences, absorbed them and added to them their own native touch so that the final outcome of this interaction was a wonderful cultural melting pot.

Moving east from the treasury through the street of facades and then climbing the steps give one a good view of the busy marketplace and commerical hub of Petra.

The donkey also enjoyed the view

Many other building around the site show dwellings of locals and tombs of important families.

At western end is the Temenis Gate with a colonnaded street.

A long hard hot walk with 800 steps at the end ( Di sat and waited, smart!) is the Ad-Deir Monastery. The climb was rewarded by amazing view across the valley from on high.

 

Petra (on arrival)

We first saw Petra by candlelight. It's a ceremony where you sit on mats on the ground, then hear local music followed by a moving speech at the end in English.

What the guide books don't say: "Take a torch" - the 2.5km entrance to Petra is along a path that is rough in many places and passes through dark gorges or canyons. The ground is uneven with many loose stones and over cobble stone paths that are only lit by tea lights covered with a brown bag placed every 15-20 m. During the day, it's a relaxed walk; at night it's a concern...Especially with people firing camera flashes every 10 seconds or so en route; and your eyesight taking time to adjust then FLASH again. Bloody tourists!

 

Wednesday, 29 May 2013

Mt. Nebo, Madaba, Kerak, arrive Petra

Today we drove south along the King's Highway, a scenic and ancient road connecting Amman with the Red Sea coast at Aqaba.
Our first stop was Mount Nebo. 
This is site from where Moses saw the promised land. It is also the area in which he was buried. The exact area is not known.
The cave centre picture still has a spring. (Remember Sunday school)
The river is the river Jordan the border with Israel. We had difficulty seeing Jericho since a large sandstorm was brewing. The black stripe center picture is the river Jordan.

Madaba
A famous historically significant mosaic map featuring biblical important sites in the Holy Land  is located at the church of St George in Madaba.
After lunch we were back on the road and went through Wadi Mujib It's 1,200 meters high and offers great views over Wadi Majib canyon
 
We driove across the dam at the base of the canyon and climbed the other side. 


Karak
A famous Crusader castle (Mamluk Castle) dominates the town. Built in in 1142AD by by the Crusaders, it was taken by Saladin's armies in 1183 after an epic siege.




Ajloun

Only about 30km northwest of Jerash we travelled though amazing forested parkland in the highlands Ajloun Forest  to the town of Ajloun. There were olives growing on many of the slopes on the surrounding hills. this part of Jordan is mountainous terrain and is an earthquake zone. The idea that Jordan is flat and an desert landscape doesn't apply to this northern region.
On passing though the town of Ajloun, the castle on a nearby hilltop came into view. it was was built atop Mt 'Auf (1250m) by one of Saladin's generals - also a nephew, to defend against the crusaders.
Ajloun Castle (1184-1188)



The castle has a 15m moat and was never besieged 


The  thick stone walls provided relief from the fierce summer heat.

The views of the surrounding countryside towards the Jordan river valley and Israel are amazing.

Back through town .....What more diggers - this place rocks!

Jordanian Lunch at a local family home at nearby village of Rassoun
The home-cooked traditional meal was baked chicken and vegetables, rice and salad. I pigged out on the locally grown olives; they were very tasty and a much fresher flavour. 
The low seats are like sitting on a cushion on the floor - so easy getting back up!

Tuesday, 28 May 2013

Jerash

Mention Jordan and everyone thinks Petra. But the Romans also left quite a mark on the country. After seeing the the citadel and Roman Forum in Amman yesterday. today we went to Jerash.

Jerash is only about 50 Km north of Amman. Although inhabited from Neolithic times, it settled down as a town during the reign of Alexander the Great (333 BC), but is largely a Roman creation with classical Roman structures.It is one of the best preserved Roman provincial cities in the Middle East and often referred to as the Pompeii of Asia.
Hadrian's Arch (Monumental Gateway)
 Built to honour visiting Emperor, Hadrian.
We then proceeded through the south gate to the 90m by 80m oval shaped plaza; the Forum which  served as a market place. It has 56 ionic columns all made from with four cut pieces of quarried stone.
Forum (Oval Plaza)

Then a 800m stroll along the superb 'Cardo Maximus' - the city's main drag to the South Gate.
The paving stones run at 45 degrees to the direction of the road to reduce the noise of the chariot wheels. It was built in the first century AD. About 1.5 meters below the middle of the road is a drainpipe or drainage channel with circular manhole points about every 15 m along the carriageway to clear any blockage. The gutters drain from each side of the road into the central drainpipe,so the Romans didn't dig up the road like our local councils - they built the road well from the start.

The Nymphaeum (circa 191AD)
We couldn't remember what the guide said about what the name means. So google says:

Ancient Greek and Roman sanctuary consecrated to water nymphs. The name— though originally denoting a natural grotto with springs and streams, ...

This was the city ornamental fountain dedicated to the water nymphs. The structure is well preserved but was faced with marble slabs on the lower level and plaster on the upper level and topped with a half dome. Water flowed though the holes on the lower level into a large pool at the front, the overflow poured out through seven carved lions. into drains in the street below. The large pink granite basin at the from was added by the Byzantines.

The theatre and north gate in distance - live concerts held here in summer 

From the theatre we walked to the Temple of Artemis (Daughter of Zeus). This was dedicated to the Roman God Diana. It is in excellent. The columns with a their Corinthian capitals are in excellent condition.




Next the mosaics.
At the church of St Cosmos and St Damianus, (533AD) the floor has the best preserved mosaics at Jerash.


The south theatre (81 AD) originally seated 5,000 people in two stories, only one remains. The sound projection centre stage is amazing


Truly an amazing sight.

Oh, sorry girls no princesses were around but for Ethan ...